ForMatter/Finishes/cut/Asscher cut (square step)
finish_cut_asscher

Asscher cut (square step)

cut · polished · asscher, square emerald cut, modified asscher

A square step cut with cropped corners — patented 1902 by Joseph Asscher of Amsterdam. The Art Deco diamond. Reads as a hall of mirrors viewed straight down through the table; less brilliance than a square brilliant, more gravitas, more clarity-revealing. Royals, period jewelry, deliberately vintage settings.

Original Asscher: 58 facets, square, deep crown-to-pavilion step ratio, table 60–65%, depth 65–70%, cropped corners ~25% of edge length. Modern 'Royal Asscher' (re-patented 2001): 74 facets, more brilliance, slightly smaller table. Crystal-stress geometry similar to emerald cut — pavilion stress concentrators avoided by step facets parallel to the girdle. Best on diamond and high-clarity sapphire / aquamarine. Square aspect (1.00–1.05 L:W) distinguishes from emerald cut's rectangle.

character — Art Deco gravity, hall-of-mirrors clarity-flash, period register.

Finish properties

  • levelpolished
  • subcategoryfacet style, square step cut
  • applies togemstone

Second life

reversibilityzero — gemstone facet styles are subtractive and committed once cut; "re-cutting" produces a smaller stone with different proportions. The original cut is permanent.
blocks substrate recyclingno
renewabilitymoderate — chips and edge wear can be re-polished with minor weight loss; major damage requires full re-cut to a new pattern.

GIA Diamond Grading and Identification literature; AGS American Gem Society cut-grading standards.