ForMatter/Finishes/cut/Marquise cut (navette modified brilliant)
finish_cut_marquise

Marquise cut (navette modified brilliant)

cut · polished · marquise, navette, boat-shape

A pointed-oval modified brilliant — both ends sharp, like a navette (small boat). Commissioned by Louis XV of France for his mistress Madame de Pompadour, the marquise (whence the name) reads as the longest of the elongated cuts, the most elegant on a finger, the most dangerous to set without protection.

Modified brilliant with 55–58 facets, length-to-width 1.75–2.25 classical (longer than oval or pear). Both points require V-prong protection — the marquise has two stress concentrators, not one. 'Bow-tie' along the short axis is the most pronounced of any modified brilliant; cutters compensate by careful pavilion-main-angle selection. Optimum proportions: table 53–63%, depth 58–62%. Looks larger per carat than any other cut due to elongation; setting must accommodate flex without chipping points. Common for diamond and sapphire; less common in softer stones (topaz, emerald) where the points are vulnerable.

character — longest elongation, two stress points, courtly-elegant register.

Finish properties

  • levelpolished
  • subcategoryfacet style, modified brilliant
  • applies togemstone

Incompatibilities

  • soft stones (topaz, peridot, emerald) without bezel-protected setting

Second life

reversibilityzero — gemstone facet styles are subtractive and committed once cut; "re-cutting" produces a smaller stone with different proportions. The original cut is permanent.
blocks substrate recyclingno
renewabilitymoderate — chips and edge wear can be re-polished with minor weight loss; major damage requires full re-cut to a new pattern.

GIA Diamond Grading and Identification literature; AGS American Gem Society cut-grading standards.